Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Surfers
Surfing
Journalists, biography
Personal Memoirs
Voyages and travels
Anecdotes
BIOGRAPHY & AUTOBIOGRAPHY
New York Times bestseller
New York Times reviewed
Biography
Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for ye…
Not available to read online
This scan is restricted to patrons with print disabilities and can't be borrowed with a regular free account — signing up won't unlock it. Try Toronto Public Library, Libby, or Amazon above instead.
